March 1, 2004(cont'd)
Two big announcements today. It is now official -- February had the worst weather in the 150 years of weather records. Many areas got six times their usual rainfall. Record lows for number of sunshine hours. Strongest westerlies since 1941, with 24 windy days. You lose some.
On the other hand, Lord of the Rings won a record-equaling eleven Oscars. You win some -- big time!
March 2, 2004
Pohara to Richmond (outside Nelson)
80 km today / 2159 kms to date (in 5:19)
An early morning ride past tidal flats, pancake rocks, shorebirds, in the still morning crisp air. Up and over a rarely used gravel road to the North end of Abel Tasman Park past bulldozers and trucks busy clearing the many landslides -- fortunately quite minor.
Abel Tasman Park, at 23,000 hectares, is New Zealand's smallest National Park. Located at the northern tip of the island, close to Nelson and the ferry to the north island, it is also one of the most accessible and therefore one of the most popular. There are tons of walking tracks and it is well-serviced for casual trekkers. The 51-km coastal track goes through a number of bays, all with large sandy beaches. Water taxis stop at the bays, so it is easy to design a walk that fits -- from 2 hours to 4 days. Same for kayaking -- start/stop at any of several places. It is well serviced because there are lots of people -- the usual upside/downside.
The water taxi has a narrow metal ramp that is folded double in the back of the boat, then lifts into the air in an inverted V, then unfolds like an automated claw to rest on the beach. If you're lucky you can get yourself on without getting a soaker; if you have a bike, it's harder; if you're a klutz you're doomed. I got quite wet.
Following the coastline we saw more than 250 kayaks - many doubles, most beginners, most with guides. Kayaking is big tourist business here and with the beaches, caves, rocks, blue sky, blue sea, it is not surprising. However, bug repellent sales are very, very, very high because there are very, very, very many sand flies -- the little nippers. Nonetheless, in another trip it would be worth doing some serious kayaking.
The water taxi dropped us at the south end of the park and off we cycled (no cycling is allowed in the park) to Motueka, which we had passed through on our way to Farewell Spit some days ago. At that time, I'd taken my watch to a jeweler to see if he could get it started again, after it had gotten soaked in one of the frequent downpours we had found ourselves caught in. His fix lasted about ten minutes. Visit two resulted in him laying out some rusty parts for me to see. I now have a new water-resistant watch on those days that it feels like we are cycling under water!
We took a long shortcut on a route that turned out to be hilly and truck-busy to boot (cyclists, don't take the Upper Moutere route), but it is starting to get into the Marlborough wine-growing country areas, so all is not lost. Rolling into Richmond is like rolling into a strip mall; busy, characterless, hurrying cars. Our accommodation is one of four new units run by the local rec club. They have a gym, squash courts, a caravan park and four motel units. It is operated by a society, uses lots of volunteer labour and, I presume, the commercial activity cross-subsidizes the club activities. While I admire their pluck, and even though I am on holidays, I can't help myself wondering how the local motel owners react to this enterprise by a (I'm supposing) tax-exempt entity. I should get a life!
March 3, 2004
Richmond to Havelock
90 km today / 2249 km to date
As Richmond morphed into Nelson, we found a bike path along the foreshore that avoided the city centre altogether and carried us along the coastline past boathouses, cafes, wetlands, mudflats, for about 30 km. Sunny, blue, scenic, happiness.
We went over a couple of high saddles after that with two young Austrians. As long as I could ask them questions that took long answers and I restricted my responses to one-word grunts, I could go fast enough that they had to keep pedaling. Why do cyclists get thighs like pistons and I get chicken-legs?
We went through the Rai Forest that looked more like Rai Deforested. But it eventually became Rai Reforested. We have to keep reminding ourselves that tree farms are farms -- which includes reaping the crop. I don't know the stats, but from what we've seen, they do better at the "reseeding" part of the equation than we in B.C. do.
Tonight we tried our first youth hostel. Somewhere the youth in youth hostel got lost. There's not a soul under 30 and most are over seventy. Many seemed to be loners with noses inserted firmly in books. A group of six Brits are determinedly cheerful despite the observations of one who compares everything to how she does it at home -- and who keeps turning off the sole overhead light to save electricity. But you can't beat the $46 price. And it is another experience.
The hostel building is an old schoolhouse, built in 1881. Among its students were Nobel prize-winning atomic scientist Rutherford and someone else named Pickering who "did something important at NASA". Heady stuff, indeed. Whereas our room is called "The Cupboard" - an inauspicious beginning. The YHA leaseholder-manager-franchisee leads us to a cupboard that looks like a wardrobe which was pushed against the hallway wall. He unlocks it and, lo and behold, behind it is a room about 3m by 4m. Every time I enter it feels not at all like science and every bit like Alice Through the Looking Glass. Better go, because..... I'm late, I'm late, for a very important date, no time to say hello, goodbye, I'm late, I'm late, I'm late, I'm late.
March 4, 2004
Havelock, South Island, New Zealand to Wellington, North Island, New Zealand
43 km today / 2292 km to date (in 3:11)
The northeast corner of the South Island is a gorgeous area of coves, islands, inlets known as Marlborough Sounds. It has some interesting walking tracks and must be heaven to kayak in all that protected water with the fantastic coastal scenery. Even cycling is awesome. The traffic is diverted largely onto the highway so the only cars following the rising, falling, twisting road are going almost as slowly as we are as they gawk at the shimmering bays. Many of the tiny bays between Havelock and Picton have a handful of homes or summer cottages. Maybe one day... Of course, one would have to contend with the voracious sand flies.
Of the twelve cyclists on the Interislander ferry from Picton to Wellington (yes, we are finally leaving the South Island for the North Island), six were Canadian (us and four Vancouverites); surprising since until now we have met only two Canadians in the whole of the last seven weeks. Another couple on the ferry were from the U.S. They were full of tandem bicycle enthusiasm, wowing us with the names of tandem bicycling clubs such as COWS (couples on wheels) and RATS (Richmond area tandem society). One can't help but wonder how many club wannabes are attracted by the acronyms. But they had a couple of interesting pieces of travel advice. Namely, of all the routes they've done, their number one pick is around the lake where Germany and Switzerland meet, then down the hills into Salzburg and Vienna. Number two was east of Adelaide to Melbourne (that direction to catch the prevailing winds) on the Great Ocean Road. Do it before Christmas, when Australians set out themselves in cars in large numbers. I'm filing these ideas away for future reference.
The New Zealand ferry company does a smart thing. It advertises the fast cat (Lynx) sound familiar(?) as the speedy boat and the old lugger as the relaxed, scenic, cruise-style ship -- so all the tourists choose the slow one. Sounds smart to me so I offer the idea free to the B.C. Ferry Corp. Most of the route (75%) across the Cook Strait is in shallow water (less than 100 metres) and is subjected to the big winds in New Zealand so it can work up some serious waves. Motion sickness bags are readily available and prominently displayed. The Lynx sailings are canceled often because they don't perform well in bumpy water. In yet another deja vu, the could go faster but are restricted by law to a slower speed because of the wake they throw. Some things are so similar.
The boat is running two hours late because of strong winds earlier in the day, and now tacks on a further half-hour delay because it can't close the stern door, both confidence builders. But sail it did, and as we cruise into Wellington's large and dramatic harbour, the air is calm, sunny and warm.
Wellington proper has a population of 200,000+, but the regional population is double that. The city stretches along the shoreline and over the ridges, but with lots of green, it looks like a very livable city. As we cycle up into the hills (all roads from downtown lead up) to Laurie and Martin's place, we pass through small funky communities and lots of Victorian houses. Huge numbers of homes are perched on the side of a cliff -- these folks know how to live dangerously.
Although I haven't seen Laurie for ages (she moved to NZ six years ago) soon we're all yakking away like crazy. We all have so much we want to hear from each other that the hours fly by. Laurie is director of Environmental Studies at Victoria University and Martin owns a jewelry import business, so they have lots of interesting insights about the current NZ environmental issues (GE crops, land use) and business challenges. But there will be lots more time to talk tomorrow. To bed and we sleep like logs.
March 5 & 6, 2004
Wellington
7 km today / 2299 km to date
We took Friday pretty easy. We found a place to get some new spokes for my bike. Apparently the rebuilding job after my wheel was scrunched in Tasmania was less than perfect. But who can complain when they squeezed the repair job in on Christmas Eve. And now, thanks to the efforts of our super travel agent, Lorraine, Quantas has agreed to cover the cost. Now we have to retract all those rotten things we thought (and said) about Quantas. The bike store that helped us here today with spokes was great, but they're going out of business. After 3/4 hour attention, they sold us 4 spokes (and installed 2) for $4. Can't figure out why they're going under.
The rest of the day we lazed around Laurie and Martin's house while Laurie was out improving young minds. Theirs is a 1912 character home with a tiny outdoor area out back, steps up about 4 metres to a flagstone patio area, steps up another 5 metres to yet another landing, at this point with a panoramic view of Wellington Harbour, and more steeply sloping land above all that. What's so amazing is that this isn't amazing. Many properties climb up steep slopes. Very cool. Very disquieting in this earthquake-prone territory.
Saturday was full, busy, entertaining. Brent and I went to a nearby bird sanctuary -- an amazing place. Until recently it was a reservoir. A few years ago, it became a dream. New Zealand has many projects to rejuvenate native vegetation and birds, which means ridding tracts of land of predators such as rats, stoats and possums. Typically these experiments are conducted on islands so, once eradicated, they stay pest-free (with ongoing vigilance and a bit of help). This sanctuary, however, is in the middle of Wellington. Volunteers raised money, sponsors contributed, an eight-foot fence specially designed so these predators cannot get up and over was constructed and the area cleared. Volunteers maintain it. Its an incredible experiment and that it was all done by volunteer funding and labour is an incredible inspiration.
For the rest of the day we toured Wellington, sampling its busy esplanade with its interesting mix of old and new building. Brunch at a harbour cafe. 360 views from Victoria Mountain. Latte at a patio on the beach in one of Wellington's many seaside suburbs. The harbour was hopping -- boat races, bicycles, joggers, strollers, but most, like us, just meandering about enjoying the sun and sea. It seems a very livable city with its long shorelines, treed neighbourhoods, young population, and arty stores. This from someone who doesn't much care for cities.
We visited the Te Papa Museum, having time only for its interactive natural history section and Maori history/culture section; opened in 1998, the museum is pretty remarkable. Malaysian dinner at Roti Cafe. An evening stroll about the harbour, still busy with cafes, bars and theatre-goers. And to finish the evening, a glass of wine at the Embassy Theatre, a very inviting grand dame with its original hexagonal mosaic floor, wooden balustrade and sofa seating in the upstairs foyer. This theatre was the location of the world premiere of Lord of the Rings and it looks like it will be on here forever! If we hadn't been already experiencing sensory overload, we might have given it a go.
We have had a good visit, imbibed a good selection of NZ wine, seen lots of interesting sights and enjoyed being in a home again. Tomorrow we'll be tested by our pedals.
March 7, 2004
Wellington to Wanganui
39 km today / 2338 km to date (in 2:18)
Here's a neat thing about a hilly city -- we coasted the 3 km to the railway station, no pedals necessary! What a great way to get to work in the morning! The Overlander train travels Wellington to Aukland, some 700 km. We have booked about 170 km to Marton because we are told the scenery isn't terribly interesting in this section and, with our limited time remaining, we're going to need to make judicious but liberal use of alternative transportation if we want to see all of the spots on our list. Where do the days go?
The train has five cars with a total passenger capacity of about 300 people -- there are 25 on it. We may be lucky to be doing these trips now -- how much longer can they last? The four young men in the the seats behind us compare drug cocktail coverage (for treatment of AIDS) in various countries. The four teen-age girls behind them giggle, talk loudly about food and repeatedly sing a ditty "I want to go out with you (insert name)". Some people claim those are the best years of our lives -- not a chance!
The ride is interesting for the short time we're on it. It follows the coastline for a while, rolling pastureland, passes through some rural towns. For the moment the north island looks very little different from the south, although we've seen more corn and maize in these two hours than in all the previous seven weeks, so we know it must be warmer here. At first we see little evidence of the flood damage that has hurt this area, but eventually we come to downed fences with reeds and grasses caught in their mesh from water coursing down their path. The rail lines have been washed out in places and only recently repaired; the train moves slowly over these patches as the rail is still settling. Notwithstanding these clues to the recent devastation, now that the water has receded and the areas dried, it is hard to reconcile these views with the news coverage of only a few weeks ago of flood ravages in this, one of the hardest hit, areas.
Eventually the train sets us down in the early afternoon in Marton (pop 5,000) and we make our way on quiet inland roads to Wanganui (pop 45,000) at the mouth of the country's longest navigable river, the Wanganui River (329 km). We stop just before the city, attracted by a sign for cheap accommodation. It is that. Many of our neighbours are permanent residents in the motel or in one of the trailers scattered on the property. The manager has long flowing grey hair and an even longer grey beard. He zips around on a riding mower looking vaguely like a wizard using unlikely transportation. Some co-residents are pogey folks, some work in town. One with problems of his own is first our best friend, then a cursing frantic when he thinks someone has stolen his wallet (later found under him on his wheelchair) and then back to best friends when he hopes to share our dinner! We might not always end up in the best of places, but Brent always shows me an interesting time! We plan an early start tomorrow.
March 8, 2004
Wanganui to Patea
73 km today / 2411 km to date (in 4:34)
The slightly inland road to Patea is busier with traffic than we had expected, although we had been forewarned to expect this since the north and south islands are roughly the same size, but the population of the former is three times that of the latter. The other difference is that drivers are in more of a hurry, racing by at 100, 110, 120 kph. Forewarned is not the same as internalized!
Today we see more visible evidence of the recent flooding. Crossing a couple of rivers, all the trees have been torn from the river banks. The waterways are filled with dead branches, toppled trees. One river bed seemed safe from floods -- it was 20m wide and 15 m tall. But flood it did -- we saw locals with wheelbarrows bringing silt from their lawns back to the river. The volume of water that must have coursed down it is almost unfathomable given the lazy movement of the water now there.
March 9 & 10, 2004
Patea to Opunake 73 km today / 2484 km to date (in 4:52)
Opunake to New Plymouth 68 km today / 2552 km to date (in 4:45)
For two days we journey to and around Mt. Taranaki. It is indeed a lot like Mt. Fuji; that is, visible across a great expanse of flatland, a single giant (2581m) cone sitting in a pasture -- or, more accurately, a volcanic ring covered with ash on which grass now grows and cows graze. It looks so much like Mt. Fuji that it played that part in "The Last Samurai" which was filmed in this region (Taranaki). Mt. Taranaki is, however, not a single cone -- it only seems so from the angle at which we first approach it. But as we work our way around, we see that it is the largest in a row of dormant (as distinct from inactive) volcanoes. At 9:00am it looks like a huge grey cone in the distance; by 10:00 it has a tutu of cloud around its middle; by 10:30 the top third is entirely obscured, clearing only again in the later afternoon. We are lucky, apparently, to have had these good views. And day 2 is even better.
This seems to be the dairy capital of New Zealand. Even though it is autumn, the grass is a rich green, and even though its supports a huge number of dairy cattle, the grass is long and plentiful. It must be a combination of the rich soil, warm temperatures and rain attributable to the ocean air hitting Mount Taranaki and dropping its moisture. On the route we passed the world's largest one-site, multi-product dairy factory, complete with a rotating restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows and milking machinery performing on 300 cows in its centre. I couldn't get Brent in there this trip; now we must most certainly come back.
The route we are on is called the Surf Coast, an area popular with surfers; however the road is just far enough away from the coast that we aren't able to see any practitioners.
Our accommodation in an on-site caravan at the Opunake (pop 1600) Holiday Park is right on the beach. Its black sands are a testament to the previous volcanic history and the remains of two jetties are a testament to the stormy seas of the area. Breakfast on the beach is a great way to start Day 2.
Heading 10 miles inland, we circumnavigated this portion of the mountain in its foothills. While heading toward it was pretty awesome -- it filled pretty well the whole line of vision -- turning to continue around the base was hilly and hillier. But this inner ring road had little traffic and the sun was out. The cows seemed in contented spirit, pulling great tufts of grass out by the roots in a way that was clearly audible.
Eventually back at the main coastal road, we followed the line of the sea to New Plymouth (pop 40,000), a busy metropolis with interesting old buildings, a scenic foreshore walk, and a long involved history of Maori settlements, Maori tribal wars, European settlement and Maori/European settler wars. Now it is the area of greatest European/Maori assimilation that we have seen.
March 11, 2004
New Plymouth to Whangamomona
105 km today / 2657 km to date (in 6:05)
Our original plan today was to complete the loop around Mt. Taranaki, which stood sentinel in fine clear weather the whole morning. But the 42 km road into Stratford was heading south into a strong headwind. Since our next segment headed back out a narrow angle to that on which we came in (that is to the northeast), we realized we could use the 35 km wind to advantage. We quickly adjusted our plan and set out, letting the wind do half the work.
We cruised along at a good speed, crossing three saddles, thereby leaving the volcanic plain of Taranaki and reentering hilly country. The entire area has been cleared over the years and is now all grazing for beef cattle. It looks like many other parts of New Zealand, except there are no towns. We are on a road called the Forgotten World Highway. It is full of history, full of the past. Douglas Village once had a store, butcher, blacksmith, bakery, stables, boarding house, billiard halls, saddlery, railway sheds, stockyards, brick production kiln and a sizable population. It now has three homes. It is representative. Our hotel is in Whangamomona (pop 200), the largest gathering of people on the 153 km stretch. Forgotten World and fading fast.
March 12, 2004
Whangamomona to Taumarunui
90 km today / 2747 km to date (in 6:17)
In the country, hotel room doors do not have locks. Our room last night was in the attic, so when a fine gent lost his way he ended up in our room. He was in search of one of the domestics. Felt like something out of a British movie. Didn't see him again.
Today's road was full of variety. More pastureland at the start. Then over a saddle where there are supposed to be clear views of a pa, which is a hill fortified by early Maoris, often with earthworks such as stone walls, defensive trenches and food storage pits. In fact, many European-built stockades were constructed on former Maori fortifications. We read about these in New Plymouth and have been on the alert ever since. We are still none the wiser since, even with binoculars, we couldn't discern the pa. The hunt continues.
We then passed through an eerie tunnel called the Moki Tunnel but which the locals refers to as the Hobbit Hole. It was constructed in 1935/36 and when it needed to be heightened in later years to accommodate modern transportation equipment, they lowered the road by 2 feet rather than raising the ceiling of the tunnel.
Still later we cycled on 13 km of gravel road through the Tangarakau Gorge. Where land reserves are in place, there is a line that could be seen from outer space. Grazing land ends and within a foot the vegetation is tall, lush. There is not the same variety we saw in the south, but after so much pastureland it is a welcome relief to be in an area with cicadas and butterflies, tree ferns and black beech, a burbling stream, a flowing river, cascading falls. Where the gorge is narrow, it is cool and mossy.
Further along the gorge widens. It was created when the friction of the two plates on which New Zealand sits caused a huge area to uplift. The uplifted area had previously (that is, some millions of years ago) been a sea bottom, collecting thick layers of marine sediment. The gorge was created when, after the upthrust, the river eroded the soft mudstone. We had paid attention to this story because we were watching out for a papa drive. Papa is the mudstones; they were once fired to make brick. A papa drive is a culvert made with these bricks. Stymied again. Again the hunt continues.
Back into pastureland, a cinematographer's moment. High, high on the ridgeline, a man sat astride his horse, two dogs patiently poised behind him. He was using the whistling technique to herd his cattle. The whistles echoed through the valley. He occasionally called to one of his mates. His silhouette on the ridgeline was picture-perfect. The Marlborough Man and his rugged lifestyle.
Rounding a corner, we came upon the mate. Barreling down the road on a giant 4WD quad ATV, blowing on a big blue whistle. Image shattered.
March 13, 2004
Taumarunui to Turangi
73 km today / 2820 km to date (5:09)
Taumarunui (pop 6500) is a grungy town. We have been cycling hard, so are due for a break, but this isn't the spot. So despite an 800m, 18-km hill (are we nuts?) and lots of other bumps to conquer, we figured we were up for the challenge. The best that can be said about 2 1/2 hours of uphill is that when its over it doesn't seem so bad!
March 14 & 15, 2004
Turangi
Turangi (pop 3900) is at the southern end of Lake Taupo, New Zealand's largest lake and (surprise) also a hydro-electric project. Turangi had its genesis as a construction village for the 1973 construction of the power station but is now a smallish centre for adventure tourism and fishing. Many travellers use it as a base from which to trek the Tongariro Crossing. We rested up on Sunday, then set out for the trailhead on the 7:30 a.m. Monday bus. We are told that up to 1,000 people do the trek on a weekend day, when Kiwis join the collection of foreigners who have come from far and wide. Monday meant we would have a more solitary experience, with only 500 or so people to keep us company.
Tongariro was New Zealand's first National Park, created in 1887 when its three volcanoes Raupehu (2797m), Tongariro (1967m) and Ngauruhoe (2287m) were gifted to New Zealand by the Ngati Tuwharetoa people. There continues to be lots of volcanic activity with occasional (every few years) eruptions of ash, steam, hot rocks. The area now has a well-deserved National Heritage Site designation.
The crossing is a 17-km trek, which climbs 800m to an altitude of 1900m, and then drops 1100m on the route out. Virtually all walkers start at the same end, so that helps keep it less crowded. But it is still a rare moment when there is no one else in sight.
Despite the crowds, it is a spectacular walk. It is billed as New Zealand's best one-day walk and sererves the title. The variety and the unique terrain, as well as terrific panoramic views, are quite something. We followed a small stream up the valley, then climbed the side of the volcano watching the plant life change as we ascended. The volcanic rock was grey and, in the sunlight, ochre; everything from volcanic dust and "pebbles" to rocks and outcrops of varying size and shape. Then over the saddle between Tongariro and Ngauruhoe, and walking about 1 1/2 km across the perfectly flat mud surface of the south crater, surrounded by its low volcanic walls. Were it not for the walls, it would look like a desert.
At the summit we are looking over at the Red Crater. Terrific red colours, an enormous vent blown out in a giant vertical slash on its side. Steam pours out of the ground on the slope in front of us, the smell of sulphur wafting over and the telltale yellowish-green colouration visible in spots. They are ready reminders of the heat beneath us. Down the other side are small but intensely turquoise-green water-filled craters. The sun comes out. We slip-slide down the ash and rubble. It is most definitely a "Wow moment".
Clouds roll in and we cross the central crater in an eerie mist, sorry to miss the view but enjoying the isolation and mystery. On the way down we pass waterfalls and huge hot springs, steam pouring out of the earth in a dense stream visible for miles.
As we near the bottom, we pass through native forest, dense and full, and in sharp contract to the stark views of only a short distance up, which has been bridged by a pretty, sloping section of tall tussock grasses.
What a day -- volcanoes always in sight, traversing craters, viewing vents and crater lakes; alpine, sub-alpine and native forest. All on an immense scale. One can only marvel at New Zealand's natural history, and this hugely illustrative (and energetic) hike.
March 16, 2004
Turangi to Taupo
63 km today / 2883 km to date (in 4:07)
After an 8-hour trek, including 800 metres of up and, harder still, 1100 metres down, we are stiff! It shows what 6,000 km of pedaling will do for you. Not much! But, while walking is not easy, cycling seems to be OK. So on we go.
Each major highway in New Zealand is given an inviting touristy name. Today we are on the "Thermal Explorer", an indication that we are approaching the most active and interesting geothermal area in the country -- not a bad thing if one has aching legs and there is the promise of healing powers in the local water and mud.
The terrain is largely flat as it follows the shores of Lake Taupo, although the lake is just out of sight for much of the way. Later we climb a big hill into pine and eucalyptus plantations -- and the associated monster logging trucks which carry 2-foot wide logs with huge growth rings marking them as only 30 years old. (The fact that we know how big the growth rings are is an indication of how close the trucks are when they whip past.) Since all the logs are destined for pulp, the paperless society seems to be some time off.
While not an inspiring cycle ride, it was a short distance, so after wheeling in to our motor camp we set off for its "private thermal pool". I had visions of Yellowpoint -- outdoor pool set in natural rock. Instead, we plunked into a 2m by 3m tiled pool with nowhere to sit but on the three steps facilitating entry. We scrunched onto the top step in the corner, admiring the view of the immediately adjacent industrial area. The water is hot, so the geothermal capacity is impressive. But not much else was. We soon convinced ourselves that our legs felt much better so we could get out.
Nearby there is a site called Craters of the Moon, with "boiling mud pools, thermal valleys, steaming geysers and brilliantly coloured silica terraces". On the way there we expected to pass Huka Falls, "a great torrent of water plunging through a narrow cleft in the rock". Instead we got lost and ended up doing a mountain bike circuit that looks like it is used for local races -- mild twists and turns, tiny steep inclines. Good thing we are versatile.
March 17, 2004
Taupo
Surprise rainy weather today, so "Rainy day, here we'll stay".
On to Brenda's next New Zealand diary.
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